Hail damage and your paint: what to do first.
The order of operations matters more than almost anything else, and most people get it backward.

After a hail storm, document damage before repainting. Painting over unassessed hail damage leaves an insurance adjuster examining a fresh coating with no record of what was underneath. Inspect all four elevations rather than just the street-facing side, because hail arrives at an angle and north and west walls usually take the worst of it. Check soft materials first: fascia, trim, soft siding, screens and thin metal show damage before the main siding field does.
The order that matters
There is one rule and it is simple. Document first, paint second.
Repainting an exterior is the single most effective way to erase the evidence of hail damage. Do it before a claim is assessed and you have handed an adjuster a freshly coated wall and a verbal description of what used to be there.
Photographs cost nothing. Take them even if you are not sure you will file.
Inspecting properly
Most people look at the front of the house. Hail arrives at an angle driven by the storm, and on the Front Range the north and west elevations usually take the worst of it. Walk all four sides.
Then look at the soft things first, because they register damage before siding does:
- Window screens. Dented or torn screens are often the clearest early evidence.
- Fascia and trim. Splintering along edges and ends. Easy to miss and it is where water gets in.
- Soft metal. Gutters, downspouts, vents, flashing, and the air conditioner fins round the back.
- Mailboxes, grills, garden furniture. Not part of a claim on the house, but useful corroboration that a storm actually hit.
- Deck boards and railings. Horizontal surfaces take direct impact.
Only after that look at the siding field itself, in raking light if you can, early or late in the day when low sun throws shadows into shallow dents.
What hail does to each material
| Material | How damage shows | Does paint fix it? |
|---|---|---|
| Wood siding | Dents, splits, paint knocked off in circles | Only after repair. Bare wood needs priming |
| Hardboard | Cracks radiating from impact; swelling later | No. Cracks are a water path; repair or replace first |
| Fiber cement | Chips and hairline cracking | Partially. Chips fill, cracks need assessment |
| Vinyl | Cracks and holes, worse in cold | No. Vinyl damage is a replacement question |
| Stucco | Pock marks and chipping to the brown coat | After patching. Match texture before coating |
| Metal | Dents, coating stripped at impact points | Yes, with rust treatment and proper primer first |
Where claims go wrong
- Repainting before assessment. The big one. It erases the evidence.
- Only inspecting the front. Damage concentrates on the storm-facing elevations.
- Waiting too long. Policies have time limits for reporting, and they are shorter than people assume.
- Treating it as cosmetic. Pitting holds water and cracks are an entry path. Neither stays cosmetic.
- No written scope. A description is weaker than a document that separates repair from repaint by elevation.
What a painter can and cannot do
We can photograph and document what is visible, elevation by elevation, and provide a written scope that distinguishes substrate repair from repainting. That is useful to an adjuster and it costs you nothing.
We cannot tell you what your policy covers, negotiate with your insurer, or act as a public adjuster. Anyone in a painting truck who offers to do those things is operating outside their lane, and in Colorado there are rules about contractors and insurance claims worth being aware of.
If you are paying out of pocket
Plenty of damage sits below a deductible. The sequence is identical: repair the substrate, prime everything bare, then coat. Painting straight over pitted and cracked siding looks fine for a season or two and then does not.
Common questions
Should I repaint before or after a hail claim?
Document before you paint, always. A fresh coating leaves an adjuster with no record of what was underneath, which is a weak position to argue from.
Where should I look for hail damage?
All four elevations, starting with soft materials. Window screens, fascia, trim, gutters, vents and air conditioner fins show damage before the main siding field does. Hail arrives at an angle, so north and west usually take the worst.
Is pitting just cosmetic?
Not for long. Shallow dents hold water, and on hardboard or fiber cement the hairline cracks radiating from an impact are a direct water path into the board.
Can paint fix hail-damaged vinyl siding?
No. Vinyl cracks and punctures are a replacement question rather than a coating one, and cold-weather hail damages vinyl more severely.
How long do I have to file?
Policies carry reporting time limits, and they are often shorter than people expect. Check your policy promptly after a storm rather than at the end of the season.
Will a painting company handle my claim?
We document and provide a written scope. We do not negotiate with insurers or interpret policies, and you should be wary of any contractor who offers to.
Request your free estimate
Tell us what needs painting and send a few photos. We cover Brighton and every town along the corridor, and most projects can be priced without a site visit.
Rather talk? 720-208-5645

